Fume Blanc

Fume Blanc is a name, not a grape. It is actually the Sauvignon Blanc grape. A few people believe the Fume means the wine is smoky, but this is not so. A smoky taste is actually a result of the wine making style and the appellation of the grape. The name Fume Blanc actually came from Robert Mondavi who simply started barrel fermenting his Sauvignon Blanc and changed the name. Smoke didn’t have anything to do with it. Where did the name come from? Well, Robert Mondavi was inspired to revisit his production of California, Napa Valley, Sauvignon Blanc after visiting the small Loire Valley town of Pouilly-Sur-Fume, France. He loved the Loire Valley style - fragrant and floral, with smoky, grassy earth and rich melon and citrus fruits. He quickly changed the bottle shape to that of the Pouilly Fume, a close cousin to its neighbor Burgundy and the traditional Chardonnay bottle. He also changed the name to Fume Blanc, reflecting his desire to model the wine after the Pouilly Fume product. Restaurateurs and wine buyers are still confused about Fume Blanc because the wine’s name is a misnomer. It should really be called Barrel-Fermented Sauvignon Blanc because in general, many producers today barrel ferment part of, or their entire, Sauvignon blend. But, this is a California varietal labeling paradox. I know producers that barrel ferment most of it, and not all of it, and still call it fume. And, what about the Sauvignon Blanc that is barrel fermented and not called Fume? Should we have a section on the wine list for both? Personally, I think we should end the confusion and put Fume Blanc: Barrel Fermented Sauvignon Blanc on the label, at least until people know what it is. I’m tired of finding Fume Blanc in the Other Whites section of a wine list separated from their Sauvignon Blanc brethren and their ancestors Sancerre and Pouilly Fume.